P (Pleats)

This section is concerned with the physical representation of garments that show a repetitive pattern and a distinct movement of the fabric when worn. Pleats move when the body moves or when air and wind move the fabric. Pleats are
connected with movement, rhythm, the process of folding and unfolding, repetition.Pleats can also be identified with the music of the garment; they synthetize cycles and establish the rhythms of fashion. Temporality is embedded in pleats.

P as in Pleats

From swaddling cloth to winding sheet, the soft, slack depth of fabric has often been the inspiration for painting. The material comes between the painter and his model: the gesture that glazes the canvas meets the gesture that folds the drapery. ‘The postural model of my body can be found in an image outside of me. But is not each human being like an image of myself?’ Dismantling the structure of clothing restores the original fabric, the specular screen on which the lustrous face of the monochrome unfolds.

~ Roland Flexner “Fabric-Made Body,” 27

Perhaps we rediscover in modern abstract art a similar taste for a setting “between” two arts, between painting and sculpture, between sculpture and architecture, that seeks to attain a unity of arts as “performance,” and to draw the spectator into this very performance.(…) Folding and unfolding, wrapping and unwrapping are the constants of this operation, as much now as in the period period of the Baroque.

~ Gilles Deleuze The Fold, Leibniz and the Baroque,123-124

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